Vinogradskiy Eugene M.( Mountaineer)
Comments for Vinogradskiy Eugene M.
Biography Vinogradskiy Eugene M.
Born 11.10.46 in the village Staroutkinsk, Shali district of the Sverdlovsk region. In 1963 he graduated from school and enrolled in the Sverdlovsk Medical Institute. Saw the ad: "Climbing - school of courage."
The first camp - Alibek West Caucasus. The first peak - Khimik.
1966 - performed 1 bit of rock climbing.
1967 - pre-wedding trip - Bezengy, Sukhumi, Crimea. Autumn - a wedding with a handsome climber.
1968 - The first winter ascent of the Tien-Shan. School instructors.
1969 - Born the daughter of Olga. He graduated from medical school and sent to Bashkiria.
1971 - Nurek - unique work of fastening the cliff, hanging over the building under construction power plant (with S. Efimov, A. Ivanov, A. Lebedihinym, A. and T. Piratinskaya Samoilin). The first peak 5B category of difficulty - "Dream" in the Pamirs.
1972 - Again Nurek, then Communism Peak, the first time realized that the height of the "hold" well, no acclimatization: 2 nights spent at a height of 7200. 1973 - S-3. Pamirs - the peak of Mayakovsky.
1974 - Peak Russia - 3 rd place in the national championship, and then traverse the national team of Puffin peak Kalinin - Communism Peak (7,495 m - highest point of the USSR) - the first gold medal of the USSR Champion. Born the son of Alexander. Comply with the norms of Master of Sports.
1975 - The first Himalayan collection, preparation for the expedition to Makalu (8470m). The expedition was thwarted for political reasons.
1977 - Peak Russia - so far no one had repeated the route.
1979 - Yagnob, 1980 - Guamysh, 81 - Yarydag, 82 - North Face Peak Engels, 83 - the peak Block. All of these ascents were gold in the championships of the USSR. Comply with the norms MSMK.
1981 - went to three seventhousanders - Communism peak, Lenin and Korjenevskaya.
1984 - Victory Peak.
1985 - intramural championship of the USSR (bloody school in Ala-Archa). Peak Free Korea and the seventh gold medal.
1986 - Winter Communism Peak, and descended at once, without rest, at night, a storm came to the aid of Pershin and Antipin.
1987 - Himalayan winter collection Elbrus. For me - the hardest: the whole night afraid toothache and he tore his. Elbrus Race.
Summer - the Himalayan collection, running at the peak of Communism. Popal in the main team.
1988 - Himalayan collection for Tien-Shan and unparalleled traverse Vaja Pshavela - Victory - military topography.
1989 - The second Soviet Himalaya Expedition. Head of Russia's team at the traverse Kanchenzhangi. Awarded the rank of ZMS and awarded the Order of Friendship of Peoples.
1991 - Russia's first Himalayan expedition - performed the most difficult new route on Cho-0yyu (8153 m).
1992 - Wealden Psychology (known traveler), invited to Everest (8848m). Helped him climb in the Togliatti expedition to the classic route through the South Saddle.
1993 - Expedition, together with F. Konyukhova on the yacht "Formosa". It has been over 7 months from Singapore via the Indian Ocean. Red and Mediterranean Sea to the Atlantic Ocean. Unfortunately, Fedor declined from the initial idea: on a yacht around the world with climbing the highest peaks on all continents. Lost interest in the expedition and went home.
1994 - Alaska. The highest point in North America - McKinley (6193). Autumn with Efimov and Lebedihinym ascent of Everest from Tibet. Unsuccessful attempt - from 8,200, a strong wind blew, had to back down from a height of 8600m.
1995 - In the spring he was invited on an expedition in North Ossetia (Alania): made an ascent of Everest via the North Col. Awarded the highest award of the republic "the glory of North Ossetia."
Autumn has passed the first wall route in the Himalayas - the peak Barundze. At the top was October 11, the birthday! Became the champion of Russia.
1996 - spring, an unsuccessful attempt to climb Annapurna (8,078 m). In the summer took 2 nd place out of 57 participants at the city championship downhill "Abseiling" - is almost 50 years!
In the autumn, together with Pershin made a unique double - for one expedition conquered the two Himalayan eightthousanders Shishapangma and Cho-Oyu. Immediately after climbing down to the base camp and celebrated its 50 anniversary.
Winter began working with young Indonesian climbers to prepare for the assault on Everest.
1997 - April. He made his third ascent of the highest mountain in the world and ensured the success of the first in the history of the Indonesian expedition - two young climbers reached the highest point of land.
. 1997 Autumn - Ama Dablam
. 1998 March - Kilimanjaro
. 1998 - ascent of Mount Everest from the north in honor of 275 anniversary of Ekaterinburg (Russia in the expedition).
. 1998 October - went on-Lhotse Shar.
. 1999 August - Mont Blanc.