Black Nikolay( Honored Master of Sports, climber)
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Biography Black Nikolay
Born in 1938. Moscow. Honored Master of Sports. climber on an eight Kanchedzhanga (1989), Annapurna (1991), Shishapangma (1992), Lhotse (1997), Cho-Oyu (1999), a member of the first Soviet Himalaya Expedition Everest-1982.
Mechanical engineer by training, since 1987. worked as a trainer of the USSR State Sports Committee.
Climbing started in 1958. section of the Moscow Energy Institute. He made dozens of ascents on routes 5 th and 6 th cat / mp. 24-fold raised at seventhousanders Union, including p.Kommunizma, eight times on routes 6-th cat / mp, on p.Pobedy - 2 times, in 1983 and 1985. through western vertex p.Lenina - 6 times, p.Korzhenevskoy - 5 times, p.Han Tengri - one time.
In 1968. was a member of high-altitude climbers, found near the top n. Lenin landing parachutists. The dedicated work of members of this group received state awards. ND Black was awarded the medal "For Courage".
Master of Sports in mountaineering in 1978. In one of the books written about him: "The most popular man on all charges was, without doubt, Nikolai D. Black - an engineer by training, a climber by nature, a philosopher by temperament of mind."
. In 1986 he made an ascent of v.MkKinli (Alaska).
. In the Himalayas, was 8 times, got up at 5 eightthousanders
. In the first Himalayan expedition 1982. actively involved in the processing route and the organization of intermediate camps, up from V. Shopin to an altitude of 7,800 m. For participation in the work of the expedition was awarded the medal "For Labor", was awarded the title of Honored Master of Sports and the master of sports of international class.
In the second Himalayan expedition 1989. was deputy chief of the economic part. His tenure was largely determined by the success of the expedition. May 3, 1989, Mr.. climbed the main peak of Kanchenjunga (8586 m) together with the coach expedition. Efimov and Ang Babu Sherpa. Awarded the Order of Honor.
Autumn 1990. led an expedition of the Leningrad climbers on Cho Oyu (8.211 m) - after the death of summer 1990 its organizer and leader L. Troshchinenko. It was expected to climb to the top of neproydennomu south-western ridge. N. Black rose to an altitude of 7,450 meters, the participants were at 200 m above. They turned back because of bad weather and lack of time.
In 1991. climbed on Annapurna on the classic route from the north (Russia Expedition Club Vysotnik "LETI). Used the oxygen from a height of 7,500 m.
In 1992. as head of the expedition went on-Shisha Pangma without oxygen.
In May 1993, Mr.. was the coach of the Moscow expedition to Everest. Do not come to the top of the sharp deterioration of the weather.
1994. - South Annapurna, 7219 m. The first winter ascent climbers Russia in the Himalayas. Dec. 17 at the top of the south wall went up in. Bashkirov - Hand-l, B. Shataev, H. Black - Moscow, A. Minibaev, Lobanov - from Bashkortostan.
1996. - Aconcagua, Cordillera.
1997. - Lhotse Main, went up in the Russia of the expedition led by V. Bashkirov.
1999. - Cho-Oyu, ascended in the expedition Fais g. Moscow.
Instructor since 1972, working first in the climbers' camp "Alibek" in the Caucasus, then to the sport - climbing fees. Summer usually runs tours in the area of Mount Elbrus. From 1978 to 1987. was deputy chief of the sports part of the International mountaineering camp in the Pamirs. During the winter training climb p.Kommunizma in 1986. was nachspasom. The best features of this man, . given to him by nature and acquired in mountaineering, . concentrated to make a decision in a tragic situation for any climber choice (at the height of 7, . 000m two more able to move with comrade, . which stops in front of signs of life): he ordered Pershin and Antipov go down.,
. In 1989
. he was awarded the title of Honored trainer of the USSR.
Since 1975, no 1987. member of the Presidium Mountaineering Federation CA DSO "Petrel", March 1988. by 1992. Executive Secretary of the Mountaineering Federation of the USSR.
In the book "Everest-82" (Moscow: FIS, 1984) in the section "Everestovtsy tell" H. Black wrote a chapter "Altitude our work."
Photos of Black Nikolay