It seems that everything in the career of fashion designer Daria Razumikhin
happened by chance. In any case, she says so. Nothing indicated that the graduate of Moscow State University, Ph.D. in Philology, journalist Razumikhina
become a fashion designer, whose clothes are sold in expensive shops of England, Japan, Italy and the U.S.. Is that she loved to paint.
Judge for yourself: from 1986 to 1991, Daria
worked in the French and Spanish television, then four years worked in the Moscow bureau of the French newspaper Liberation. Actually, it was not a journalist, a journalist's assistant - translation, organized, negotiated, explained the local situation. And all would be nothing, but then broke up the Union, there were "hot spots", and Daria
had to wander around the country. Travel to Karabakh and Chechnya, she did not like, career military journalist is not attracted. The collapse of the Union became the number one accident - and also the first footsteps of the world's media in the fashion world.
married a British correspondent for the Daily Telegraph, and in 1994, when both ended contracts, the couple moved to London. It was an accident number two.
In the language of the special problems were not - English, said she learned of itself. We had to do something. "I was the first time in my life without work, and I had the idea to learn to what I've always wanted - says Razumikhin
. - Then I asked, where is the best institution for learning design. I was told that it was Saint Martins College ". Daria
spent four years.
And at home waiting for her chance number three. "We came in early August 1998. And if before the default, I have been thinking back to the media, that after August 98 of a trace, because all were out of work. So, way back there was really no "- she recalls.
Then came a continuous string of accidents. In September 1998 the first fashion magazine Vogue has published an article about the three Russian students of St Martins - and about Darya including. Call start, questions about the college. "And one girl called and said: if you do a collection, then bear in mind - I have a seamstress". With these seamstresses Darya and made a collection of 60 items, which in January 99 th revealed to the public. Also accidentally. There was an "auction house" - now it is not in the nature. Chief auctioneer was a friend of my father's girlfriend. And he provided me with a premise - a box of champagne. I myself sent out a press release on all the magazines - that I, a press release did not write? The cost of my first collection was minimal.
At the show a lot of people came unexpectedly, and the press spoke of him approvingly. A collection paid for itself - Dar'in "lace-ribbon" quickly dispersed. And that was the most important thing, not a success with the press: "Why do clothes, if it is not for sale? I even wedding dresses hard to create - a dress on once, I do not see any sense in such work".
It was then that Daria
has established itself in the thought that the fashion business should take seriously.
How to become a designer
Doing business was decided by all the rules. "I bought in England tutorial 'How to become a designer', - says Daria
(book and now under her arm). - Here is all-all-all: what else to do, how to avoid mistakes. Very well, I never will ". Hard for those who use British methods in our land. But Darya and was not going to work on Russia's market - simply because, in her view, "there is no market".
I must say, Moscow buyers do not share this position. They say that things Razumikhin
in Moscow is not popular due to objective reasons. "As for Dasha, - says Andrey Abolenkin (boutique 'brands') - it replaces the decorative style of decision. And it can tire any consumer. In general, our market is not completed even at 40%, is completely empty niches. Sold and sold. Only have time to sew ".
Agrees with him and another officer multibrendovogo boutique. Now, he says, in the West fashionable folk. At this wave, Dasha and became known. In Russia, it simply has no chance: our customer so obkormlen folklore that few would agree to dress in style Russe.
While in the capital does not reach ten stores, which sell designer clothes Russian fashion. For example, in Le Form 8 -10% selling brands - domestic. "The buyer is willing to purchase our product designers - they say in Le Form. - The trouble in another. If they do something standard - so that we and many Western. A specific things, stylish not so much. If these things fit into the concept of shopping, they take their. And people who rely on these stores - often regular visitors - all this willingly buy. Therefore we can not say that the Russian designers are bad. We would be happy to sell their collections, but there is one 'but'. Western designers have focused on mass production. When we order in Paris or Milan, some things, then the scheme: if our order for a thing - only then it will cost more than if the orders were a lot of. But things developed by Russia's designers - almost piece-goods: they are not produced even a minimal amount of their purchase price is high, and therefore in the store they are very expensive. Clients also, of course, wonder why it is Vasya Pupkin sold for the same money as, for example, Gauthier. Great importance is untwisted behalf: we still believe that the west - it is good ".
Boutique Brands sells only clothing designers from the CIS. "There is a huge number of artists who are doing interesting things, sell them directly in their studios. Our principle - to gather the most relevant names and the most interesting things. All these people in mind, all familiar with each other, so that the selection of the collection is always possible to make changes instantly receive the order - a connection with the designer easier - explains the approach Abolenkin Andrew Beyer. - This market segment is very promising. In Russia there is still no fashion as the industry and among designers have the opportunity to be distinctive. They do things very high level ".
went his own way. "I had intended to start selling their clothes in the West and know that it is pointless to trade abroad, things made of fabric, which they already have. So I'm not going to sell things from the Indian and Italian fabrics. Even then, my collection consisted of skirts of ribbons, skirts of lace and linen from the Russian. In September 1999, she put a new collection at London Designers Exhibition, and the first day of the exhibition has received an order from a Japanese boutique 'Epoka'. The order was small, but it was enough to have paid off show ".
The following season brought a new collection Daria
to the salon prцLt-ц=-porter in Paris. "There I was four or five orders, two of them then and have not been confirmed. But then I met with the agents, who still cooperate with me by selling my clothes in the showroom in Milan. So Daria
fitted into the world trading system designer clothes, because the showroom - it buyers from all over the world. "They'll just focus on the most expensive shops of the world. An order may be 10 things, but can - and 110 - explains Daria
. - In my opinion, the largest order that we have received - this is 150 products. So many bought large Japanese department stores in London and Liberty ".
The next season was in Milan - and again the success. "Since then, to my horror, the volume of orders each time tripled. If so, will this time, the current order, I just can not do - not enough money, nor the people ". Create an alliance with any monetary Razumikhina
organization does not want: "Cooperation, which I was offered businessmen came down to what I buy and offer wages. And I want autonomy ".
But Darier helped another chance. Due to the events of 11 September 2001, U.S. buyers did not go to Milan, and European fashion designers themselves were taken to their collections in New York. "I have no such possibility, so American buyers have disappeared by themselves. Participation has remained at last year's level, and we first went out on profits. Otherwise, I just could not stand to - money would not be enough ".
In Russia Dar'in things are sold in only two design shops. "Offer them I will not dare, because, you know, we're selling: Gucci, Versace. But one of the hits someone from the shop owner, invited friends 'time +', and she took my things to the implementation. I still worked for this store - they sell in the season of my things on the equivalent of the order of London Browns. It is not bad, but they take things to implement, and Western buyers make an order and immediately pay the money. With them I am interested to cooperate, and with our - completely uninteresting. There are a Shop 'Defile' in St. Petersburg, but there is only cheap thing-buyers-poor. A dear 'lace-ribbon' I was there not sending ".
Darya's business is built very simply. I used to get along their seamstresses home-based workers, but when the orders were lengthy, I began to distribute the work in different studios ". It is usual Moscow studio - mainly the poor and unfortunate people, who are willing to do some sewing a blouse for 100 rubles. "Another thing is that they sew, as a rule, can not. Atelier, with whom we cooperate, learned something, become better ".
Famous designer Razumikhina
more and chief accountant, and business strategy of its ECP. Hiring special people who have lifted from her shoulders the burden, it is not possible. "I had only one staff member. Now there's secretary and another man, who has been tasked to streamline our activities - all count. Not considered ".
In January, "lace-ribbon" appeared in the new firm shop silk factory "Red Rose", where Daria
has been six months, as is the lead designer.
As usual, the factory in her life was formed quite by accident. "I made a collection of crepe de Chine 'Red Rose', and I was invited to participate in the exhibition devoted to the history of silk. Sponsor of the exhibition was the same as 'Red Rose', at a show attended by representatives of the plant, and they suggested cooperation. That was in May last year, and June 1, I already went to work there. I participate in all activities of the enterprise - from the procurement of tissues to determine the price, "- says Daria
. For the factory in 2001 turned out to not be the most successful: "Red Rose" went through bankruptcy proceedings, and although it ended in an amicable agreement, the mill had to shut down unprofitable production, sell some assets and to dismiss 15% of employees
. On the question of why the tissues are no factories in Moscow shops, the leaders of the "Red Rose" answer that "to a greater extent this is due to the shortcomings of commodity policy of the Moscow stores, but production volumes and capacity of hiding.
The situation is likely, should correct the new, modern fabrics and fashions, garments factory shop Dar'in sketches. "The idea was - to make a clothing brand, affordable, but at the same time 'on the exclusive', because we have sewn the entire 60 - 100 copies. A new brand, then advertising will be spinning this brand ".
saddles a hobby, and said that in general, something must be done on the export of fabrics, because in Russia there is no serious market. So far, the "Red Rose" Apart from Russia, delivers the goods only in Belarus, so the prospects for Daria
truly limitless. Official site