HELMUT LANG

Helmut Lang - one of the most enigmatic figures in modern fashion. He does not like everything, and perhaps that is why he always wins. Helmut Lang was born in Vienna in 1956. From childhood the future designers are ready for a successful financial career, but this was not to be fulfilled. Wandering through the shops, Lang tried in vain to find shirts and suits are in line with an extraordinary temperament, but this dress just was not on sale. This is a trigger for a novice designer to sew clothes for themselves independently. This Lang is never ever studied. He believes that the instinct and innate sense of plastics have replaced his lack of education. Until ten years Helmut lived with his grandfather and grandmother in the Austrian alpine village, where his parents sent him after the divorce.

The boy wanted to become an artist, but very afraid of this desire, and, because of their Catholic education and family values, he went to business school. Winter before it had to get forty-five minutes of dazzling snow-white fields. Summer - doing the same way - but on the green meadows covered with red and blue flowers. After this alpine idyll move to Vienna was a real shock to the ten-year boy. There, in the mountains, there were no cars, no TV, no phone. Large industrial city has shaken it to its frenzied bustle and roaring subway. That shock of the first collision with the metropolis, of course, affect his future collections: Lang then will create a very urban thing and to get involved in high technology. In his childhood idol was Sean Connery. Now Lang - with its tail and a melancholy expression on his face - a bit like the actor Steven Seagal.

His style would be called, the minimalism, the futurism. Sam Helmut Lang, when he heard some of these definitions, frowns and says that all this - a word game, fun for the press. But in reality it just creates clothing that meets the needs of people.

Youth fashion designer was among the Viennese bohemian 70-ies. Just like everything else in that time, Lang wore a trendy ripped jeans and colorful shirts, but soon realized that these things do not fit him, and decided to try the classic style. At that time, Vienna had plenty of tailor shops, trimmed solid customers and political elite. Lang ordered a strict classical costume, similar to that seen in James Bond movies with Sean Connery. Gradually, the future designer formed their own taste in fashion, which he finally decided to embody in reality. Soon after Lang scored the staff cutters and tailors and started his own business.

The first collection was created in 1978 by African explanation. By his own testimony of fashion, he wanted to do something quite exceptional. And he made rectangular pieces of silk and linen, cut out holes for head and hands. 'I called it a desire to return to simple basic forms. But really I just do not know how to cut. It was horrible! " In this case no self-doubt Lang felt: 'When you do not know, you have nothing to lose' - he laughs.

Opening its first boutique in 1986, there has been such a success that the Austrian government invited him to participate in a national exhibition at the Pompidou Centre in France. His development in the field of fashion have caused such a storm of positive emotions from the criticism that by the end of the year at the Paris catwalk published his first collection. But the Helmut Lang was not ready for this 'bustling cycling fashion'. Continuing to hold their demonstrations in Paris, he soon returned again to Vienna. His first presentation included a very narrow circle of spectators and held in

very quiet and secluded atmosphere. Later, his close friend Kim Stringer explained that this was all because of the constant agitation and anxiety designer. He was always afraid that no one will appreciate his collection and will not come on the show, so he invited only his good friends.

. While in Vienna, Lang tried to resist the driving force of the four fashion capitals of the world to the early 90's, when he eventually moved to New York
. In April 1998, three days before the date of its first planned a fashion show in New York, he abruptly changed plans and decided to broadcast it only through a worldwide network of Internet. That spring Helmut Lang, finally began to benefit from their achievements with the release of its own relatively inexpensive line of Jeans.

The following season, once again stirred up a fashion designer beau monde, which announced that he wanted to show their collections in London, Milan and Paris in mid-September, ie. almost two months before the rest of the planned shows in New York. However, despite his extraordinary temperament, Helmut Lang has become a fashion designer set the tone not only in America but also in world fashion. His followers became a whole galaxy of designers such as Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Vivienne Tam and Nicole Miller. But the designer does not hide the crucial role of others in their success. For example, a key figure in his team believes Lang Melanie Ward. They worked together for many years. Stylist - this is the first and chief adviser designer, he is involved in the process, beginning with the choice of fabrics and finishing practicing small details. Ideally, stylists have become arbiters of taste, eyes and ears of the designer. They help to find the perfect balance between fashion novelties and the requirements of the street. Helmut Lang and his stylist - such an ideal case. He trusts her completely and even distances title of creative director. 'When the collection is nearing completion, it is - the only person who can give it a completeness. This gives me the opportunity to move away a step back and look at their own work by. In the end, it allows to share the responsibility, because she is editing what I'm doing ', - says Helmut.

Lang anticipates the coming millennium their tehnotkanyami and concise forms. He brought into vogue the raw edges and asymmetrical hems, rubberized fabrics and multilayer garments. He always remained true to his style and not get carried away by dramatic swings of fashion. He was a consistent and constant, which ensured him as passionate and no less passionate critics. Many claimed that it is too repetitive to be a genius, that he was deprived of the true depth of the creator whose artistic impulses vary from season to season. But every year in its collections are changes that are visible only an experienced eye - these changes are not obvious and not aggressive. They should look as follows, to pochuvsvtvovat their charm. Just have to look at the multi-layered dress, created a five-transparent dresses, to understand how to create this new texture, similar to a gentle foam. 'You do not notice how this is done, - said Lang, - you see a game of transparent tissue. That's how I understand the modern fashion: silk tulle is used with the same freedom with which the once-treated nylon.

In April 2000, Lang was admitted to the ranks of the elite American organization 'Council of Fashion Designers of America'. Until now, a member of this society could become only American designer who works in the United States.